Seal Coating

Why seal coating?

Historically, because of its low cost and long life, asphalt had not been seriously thought of as needing protection. Over the last (20) years however, we have seen the price of asphalt go from $4.00 a ton to anywhere from $26 to $55 a ton depending on location. Not only has asphalt pavement become an economic factor, but the quality has been drastically reduced.

When the oil crunch came along public agencies and oil companies decided to change the specifications of liquid asphalt, this allowed the refineries to squeeze more products out of the crude oil and help reduce the price of asphalt residual. The result was an inferior product. The user could no longer expect a twenty year life out of their $26 to $55 a ton asphalt, hence the rapid growth of the seal coat industry.

To properly maintain and even beautify your asphalt surface, we suggest using a slurry seal as a protectant that will preserve and even double the life of your asphalt parking lot or drive way. Seal coat adds a barrier between harmful elements and your asphalt pavement extending its life expectancy dramatically for pennies a square foot.

Maintenance costs for unsealed asphalt over a 15 year period are 3 times more than for asphalt that is sealed every 3 years. A regular program of seal coating makes a difference of 343.3%. Seal coating is proven to extend the life of asphalt.

Application Procedures

  1. Evaluate, repair and replace
    1. Pit run and/or crushed gravel-road base should be installed back in and rolled to proper depth and compaction.
    2. If asphalt is alligatored and sub base is stable then a level of new asphalt, known as a skin patch, can be applied.
  2. After all damaged/alligatored asphalt is repaired or skin patched, crack repair.
    1. Remove all weeds and spray for new and potential regrowth.
    2. Clean out cracks with 100 to 150 psi air pressure and heat cracks with lance to bring out existing oils to help create a better bond between asphalt and crack seal.
    3. Seal crack with a hot pour sealant of 400 to 450 degrees, or cold pour in specified applications.
  3. Tack Coat application:
    1. All areas to be sealed will be free of dust, oil, dirt, and other foreign matter by:
      1. Clean with blowers, power brooms, and commercial vacuum truck
      2. Prior to being sealed the surface being sealed will be sprayed with 1 coat of GSB-78 (tack oil) to achieve proper adherence of the seal coat.
  4. Slurry Seal coat application:
    1. Seal coat is stored in transportable containers/tanks that continuously agitate the mixture after dilution to assure a homogenous and uniform product at time of application.
    2. Seal coat will be applied in a two step process:
      1. First all perimeters, curbs, sidewalks and concrete areas will be hand squeeged or broomed to alleviate seal coat getting on them.
      2. Then the rest of seal will be sprayed on to assure an even coat of 45 square feet per gallon at a 15% dilution.
    3. Cure time in optimal conditions is 5 to 8 hours. Below 75 degrees (24) hours
    4. Care shall be taken to avoid unfavorable weather conditions. In no event shall seal coat be exposed to rain, snow, or temperatures below 50 degrees during application or cure time. Shaded areas will always take longer, especially in early spring, or fall.
  5. Line painting
    1. After seal coat is properly dried/cured, striping, lettering, arrows, and handicaps will be installed back to their original lay out unless otherwise specified by customer.

What To Expect After A Sealcoat Application

  1. When cars turn their power steering on fresh sealcoat you will notice marks that appear to tear the asphalt emulsions. Because asphalt takes up to six weeks to completely cure, it is soft when temperatures are hot. The power steering marks may continue for several days, until the emulsion in the sealcoat hardens.
  2. If you had wet or substantial buildup of oil from car drippings, you may notice that the sealcoat isn’t sticking very well in those areas. We can use an oil spot primer to help adhesion, but the sealer does not bond well in those areas.
  3. You may notice small hairline cracks that develop in the sealcoat, especially where the asphalt is rough or where cracks have been sealed. This is a normal asphalt emulsion trait where the sealer is thick. The asphalt emulsion contains some water and, as that water evaporates, may develop shrinkage cracks that will disappear as it cures.
  4. If your asphalt surface has poor drainage and puddles of water exist, you may notice that the sealcoat didn’t bond well in those areas. This is caused by water keeping the sealer from curing in those areas; ideally the low spots should be repaired prior to seal coating.